rep 13 2009

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My BSA had since I first had fixed the main problems according to my scheme always been hard to start. The only fault I knew about was the the right carburettor could not be flushing. I have had difficulties to deal with this problem. This mostly because I was not sure of the real problem.

First I tried to remove the throttle with the tank in place. Soon realized it would take to long time. Ref 1

Now 2009 I had really got tired of kicking the engine and decided to do something, what I didn't know yet. It must be something with the flushing button. This may not be long enough.
The carburettors had been rebuilt with brass bearing for the throttle inside. At this time I assume that a new flushing pin had been installed. The return stop for this has the construction that the end is open up/revited. May be it was to short because of this. I thought that if I with a suitable flat pliers could reduce this it would be some tenths longer. It may be worth a trial.

Here I study then end of the flush pin. Ref 1

Here the tools I used + 1/2" wrench. Ref 1

I started to remove the right carburettor. It showed up that this was easier to do with the tank removed in order to get place to remove the inner carburettor nut. It was also difficult to loosen the lock of the carburettor in order to be able to lift the throttle. For this a good advice is always remove the tank when

I press the end of flush pin with a pliers. Ref 1

working with carburettors.
Now I had the carburettor on my working bench and had opened for the flushing pin. Sometime my memory is good and in this time my picture was right. The reviting of the flushing press button was heavy. A flat pliers bought at a swap meeting in Västerås was well suited for this job. I pressed the overflow reviting together and got perhaps a few tenths more length.

Then I had to remount everything again. As always I had trouble to get the needle to engage into the

I must always adjust the needle with my finger from backside. Ref 1

nozzle. I always have to guide it with a finger.
You will also find a picture of what hand tools I used. One tool is missing and it is the 1/2" - 9/16" socket wrench. This for the nuts holding the tank. For the carburettor fastening nut you must use a adjustable wrench because they are so close to the

throttle body. Now it was time for testing and it was good. I learned though that the lengthening was just on the limit because I had to turn the button. It was longer on one side.
Remarkable the cycle started easier but not on the first kick.
Lastly the oil suction pipe works with a steel ball to stop oil for draining from the sump into the crankcase. This type of oil stop has a natural leakage. When cycle is standing still for weeks it will be to much oil in crankcase. This will make it harder to start engine. Empty the crankcase from oil often and you will not blow it.