Puch Monza 86 English version

Purchase

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Zündapp KS50

My purchase

It became popular with older mopeds and I could use one for local transports in where I live. Furthermore I wanted a moped for rallies nearby. First I bought a Zündapp and then it was time for a Puch. For some time I followed the ads in a Swedish paper Blocket. The Puch model had to be a Monza because it is 4 geared had a seat I liked and a carriage carrier. There were several to chose, but I called one not so far away from home. It was to be find in a small village named Vretstorp. This place is situated som km west Örebro along the high way. I had decided to go there and have a look. It was a young boy named Kim together with his father, who showed me the moped. It was late February so he had it in the basement. At first glance it looked ok, it was just moved down in basement for the winter and it was not cleaned. Supposedly, what I later realized that he had crashed heavily. I could understand that, when I started to bring it in order. For sure had had been a member of a local cross race in the village.
The tires were worn out, the flashing indicators were destroyed because of down fall driving and rear wheel spokes were destroyed. But the engine started at once and went well in spite of the special muffler. I had to lower the price. Some round talk in the basement about his interest. It was a person tractor a Volvo Duett. I understood that this should never be ready. We went then inside the house and greeted his nice mother. She offered coffee but I declined. We came to a deal, Father Kim exhorted his son to take his own decision. Because of his boy was not yet 18 the father was responsible. We wrote a receipt for 500 Skr and I should com and fetch it next week. I had to rent a transporter in order to bring the moped home.
A week later I with a rented Mitsubishi transporter from dealer in Fagersta. He had a good price, 1000:-/day and free km:s. In this type I learned that points of attachments were weak and not done for holding things like motorcycles an mopeds. The points were only attached in the inside wood cover. The car was a diesel and had a very low consumption.
The weather was snowy, around zero and badly cleaned roads. I arrived a bit to early and parked near the railway station and from my place I could control both health insurance and local community offices arrival doors. This place, I assume, had big problems with unemployed persons and youth problems. It was easy to understand that the village had both problems. Two 15-16 years old boys who didn't have anything to do and also seemed not to be in school. They went up and down the street drinking beer. The empty bottle was thrown into a bush, a car came sliding several times on the sleety street. In some way Kim must have been informed about the unknown car standing at the railway station, because a car stopped an Kim cam up and told me to follow. I rolled up to his home rather near from my parking place.

I wish Kim all the best in life.

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Purchase

Checking up the moped

Now I had the moped in my own garage and could in peace an quite check it over. I realized that I first had to wash it with my high pressure water cleaner. I had told Kim already when we were going to make the deal that if he in the future wants to get away from price lowering the stuff to be sold must look clean. This moped was not in that condition. The last thing he obviously had don was something like a cross competition in a dunghill because the moped was choked up with cow dung. See picture of what's left after cleaning with high pressure water. He had also made a heave fall because several spokes in the rear wheel were broken and the swing bars carried distinct scratches of this fall. The support had been torn away. All flashing indicators were broken and only the inner holders were left. The exhaust muffler was some kind of trim part and didn't fit the attachments. The seat had a fissure in one place. Most lamps were burnt out or cables had got loose. The chain was worn out and it was time to change pinions. Brake contact was not in order or was badly mounted. There was much work to do. A moped is a rather simple design and is easy to work with. The job is to make a list what to do and which spares I need. I could choose to call Puchverkstaden or Dangart. It became both. First parcel came from Dangart and I had supplement parts from Puchverkstaden. Then I had to put up a strategy for the work. I understood that the moped had to be fully stripped. This because a total cleaning and painting had to be done. The wheels must get new spokes and also for taking care of rust in the rims.

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Purchase

Buying spare parts and fixing the frame

Here all order lists with the parts I needed. It was expensive. If you make a click on this pictures you have an enlargement. More easy to see.

The moped in my garage and the seat dismantled. This is only the beginning. Besides you see the frame kept up in the engine lifter. The frame is just newly painted.

Here I have just mounted the original support which followed as a part.. I had to bend it right and adjust it so I got the right distance between the swing points. Some part came from Dangart. Spring and seeger rings. First I had to paint the original support that was left and make a control mounting to see that I had all the proper small parts. You can follow this job in the pictures. The brake pedal had lost its bushings it was very loose, at the same time the brake contact didn't function. It took a while before I was ready with this. The good thing was that I now could work with the moped standing in its support.

The swing for the rear wheel didn't look nice. I dismantled it and bent the arms as good as possibly, with the help of my vise and suitable tools. The difficult thing is to get the long screw out. Normally it has got rusted in it's outer bushings. Use copper hammer and you don't get later problems.

Taking away seat from its place. Most difficult was to take away the rear fastening, first picture. It was a straight through screw included with washers and distances. Difficult to get it out of its place and even more difficult to put back in place with all part in the right place. Funny was the little earth cable. Rather unnecessary when the seat had earth contact anyway. It showed up that the plate undercover of the seat had rusted a little on one side. I fixed that. I didn't take away the scratched seat cover. Instead i put the new one over. It was very hard to get it nice, but succeeded after some time. Last picture shows that even the shock absorbers are mounted here together with the the attachment ear on the seat. You can hardly see it in the picture.

Foot support and the two frame stiffening pipes, the brake pedal, were taken away, cleaned and painted. Look at the left picture where you can see the brake contact.
Now I have come so far that I can start with wheels, front fork and engine.

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Purchase

Wheels, tires and front fork

Series of pictures how I fixed the rims. Ref 1

Painted with zinc color from a spray can. Ref 1

Last the inner tube protection in place. Ref 1

Both rims were dismantled and the old worn out tires were changed. Where the holes for spoke there was rust could be seen. For this reason I took a steel brush and put it on a drilling machine cleaned it as much as possibly. After that I painted with zinc color and put on a new rim rubber band. It looked pretty good. Then I changes all bad spokes and added where they were missing. I started carefully just to now which corresponding holes it was for each spoke. This is a good advice when you only do things like this twice in your life. Only take away one spoke at the time and put in the new one. It is hard to remember spoke places. Then I had to control the front fork. It was in miserable stand. The covers hanged like a used condom. Steering bearing had a clear play. I was sighing. I had to start taking away front wheel fender and holder. Now I went this way. The fork was dismantled from the moped because everything must be brought in pieces anyway. Start

Sealing for the front fork lower tube. Ref 1

to loose the 2 big nuts on the steering handle. Now the absorber system, 2 pieces, can be taken away. Put it on your bench. In order to bring away the lower part of the fork I had to use 2 screwdriver according to the picture just to get a nut away. But first you must use a hexagon cage to loose a nut from locking position. Then you put in the 2 screwdrivers. One for locking the nut and the other to screw the notch. Screw clockwise!! to get the nut away. Now you can bring out the lower part of the absorber. Take away the seeger ring and take out the inner parts. Now you have only the sliding part left. What's left now is the long spring. It will come out easily. In three places on the spring there are nylon washer for steering of the spring and stop the absorber

oil to rush from one side to the other.
Take away the seeger spring, see picture, and bring out the parts inside the sliding pipe. We have a problem here because it is hard reassemble as long as the sealing is left. You must open the sealing an bring out the parts. Be carefully so you don't destroy the outer pipe. If not you must buy a new one. So far, all parts are loose.
Eventually you dropped some of the balls for steering bearing. You never find them. Change instead to a closed axial bearing and everything will be easier till next time. Change also all rubber sealer and o-rings. Now it is only to have fun and reassemble it all again. I have mentioned the locking device, but this you have to solve yourself.
Now its time to leave garage and go inside and kiss lover, have a vodka and go to bed.

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Purchase

To bring out the engine and update the clutch.

Now at last coming to the funny part, the engine. In order to bring it out of the frame. Note that I have used the moped for some time in order to locate if something is wrong. This was what I had to do.

The engine has only two screws holding it in place. You can see it on these photos. They have holes straight through the engine covers and the frame. You have also to loose the clutch wire.
The clutch lever, when unfasten the clutch wire, turns more than 180°. Let the small arm be in place on its spline. Then you know where it shall be mounted. This is a good advice. In the engine I can now easy eventually change contact breaker and control the distance. You don't need to dismantle the kick pedal. Before bringing the engine out, register the 3 electrical connection blocks and the color of the wires. Don't think that you will remember the places. Here is the picture. I also dismantle the carburettor so I get more place. I also take away the cylinder and the cylinder head. When you do an overhaul like this remember that also always change piston and new piston rings.
Now it's time to lift of the clutch cover.
Inside this cover there are several interesting things, First the kick system with it's chain. You can see the lathe dog and the gear wheel for the kick and how it is constructed so it can grip only one way. To the left in the last picture you can see an axle which has a notch. This is lifted with the help of clutch wire and the lever. Hard to understand just seeing this picture, but it shall lift this unit which have the effect to release the clutch. In order remount the lever if you still have in the right spline position rotate it 180°. If you look onto the clutch it looks like this. If you open up the seeger ring and bring out the clutch bearing with the rounded nut you see according to the picture to the left. On the next 3 pictures you see the clutch bearing. This part is sensible and is easily broken if mounted wrong. On the third picture you can see the axle which is machined and on the upper part a rounded nut screwed on with a locking notch. It is hard to know the position for this nut, therefore don't move it. The position has to do with thickness of the 4 clutch plates and the prestressing of the spring nut, picture 3. A good start position is what the picture shows. The shim like plate can rotate with the engine but not forced to do it. The small ball bearing has a tuff job as it shall both rotate and press the spring for releasing the clutch when you shift gears. This is done with the 180° axle as you see on picture before engine on bench. Be sure you have this bearing part as extra reserve.
Now I will show pictures dismantling the clutch unit

On the first picture, I start the dismantling. The seeger ring is already away. I have taken away the clutch bearing and put back the last shim just for the picture. Now you see the locking nut, picture 2, and it is put in the edge with it's locking shim and flat shim, picture 3. When this nut release the thread it will be a small jump when the spring is free. This is the nut that prestress the clutch pressure. Normally it shall be threaded as much as the thickness of the nut. If we now take away the next free washer you have picture 4. Picture 5 shows the spring after we have taken away its keeper. Picture 6 shows the disk plates and it's disks between. Picture 7, the clutch house is complete free. This empty house can be lifted up because it is just put on the spline. We don't need to go longer than to picture 8 in order fix a clutch.
When you reassemble it is just to do the way back. To succeed to thread the nut I show one way to do, picture 9. According to no 9 be careful not get your finger squeezed. Mine are still ok. The clutch bearing is in place, next the seeger ring and lastly the shim. If you pull the bearing you have a play. That is what you get in the clutch handle.

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Purchase