sarolea-51_eng dismantle gearbox

Sarolea 350 1951
Bring gearbox out of the frame
Link to main site Swedish version

Update
2010-04-02

The gearbox is an important part of the cycle and to be able to bring it out of the frame is good knowledge. It is quite a job so start this task with a calm mind. Don't be in a hurry or irritated. Lock out after all other interested friends, who will come and see your working, with all sorts of questions. May be you can lock your garage door. You must also have strong legs because you must often crawl on the floor. You will never know what size of tool you must have. It will be up and down. Those people who normally own this kind of cycle are a bit older or at least over mid fifty. At this age our leg muscles are not so strong any more. This demand a will of iron. Also we older have a quicker metabolism. Let this determine how fast you work and with our bad memory you will often ask yourself "Where did I put 12-13 tool". To fix old things with old hands must take it's time.

Let's start.
Now first study your cycle so you have an overview follow then my instructions. A good idea is to print these sides. The clutch is another section. Start with that if it is not already done. Here we start to bring down inner chain cover. Loosen all screws and nuts which holds it. Are you a clever person who manage to dismantle the jolt balancer? If, you are you to be congratulated. I am not. There are several screws which are almost impossible to reach. They demand much patience. Stop. You must take away the clutch first. Look at this section.



Start to take away the stud screw according to the picture. It has also a hollowed distance which is not shown. You have also another screw shown. On the side under the cover you will find another. Now this cover is loose. Let it do so for time being. Let's go over to the other side of your bike. First you must take away the battery holder and tool box.

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If they are original mounted on your bike it will be a little hard. They are screwed together with hollow distances. 2 under and 1 through the tool box.

You see the two heads under going through a flange under the battery holder and through the right gearbox fastener, a hollow distance and then through the left gearbox fastener and directly through a hole in toolbox lower fastener flange. Here you find 2 almost non reachable nuts. On the battery holder upper edge, just to be seen, there is a stud screw welded. It goes with the help of 2 hollow distances and a keeper from the frame through the tool box. The nut, about in the middle of the tool box, is the end. Start to loose this nut. Loose also the other screw in the tool box. The nut goes through the rear chain cover. Loosen now the two screws on the other side. If you are lucky, you succeed without the help of keeping the nut with a tool under the tool box. You can always press up the rear chain cover a little and put a finger on the nut. Now it is easy to take the battery holder and tool box away. Then search for all nuts and washers falling on the floor. Now study and remember how all was put together. In order to make it a little easier we rebuilt it later.

Here you see the battery holder and besides how the 2 long screws with their tubular cover were put. Also the device for gearbox tightening.
We are now going to loosen the tightening for the gearbox. This, for be able to take away the drive chain from the crankshaft. But I just forgot. Loosen the rear wheel so you can open up the chain lock and roll the rear chain away.
Now unfasten the big nut in the middle over the gearbox according to the picture. You also have 2 tightening nuts with which you can lean the gearbox front and backwards. Slope it forwards as much as you can. Look around when it is not able anymore. The primary chain slacken now quit much. Go over to the left side and lock up the chain lock and take it away. Don't forget to put back the chain lock, then it is easier to find later. Go over to the right side and loosen the tightening device completely and take the parts away. You remember that the inner chain cover is loose, but is not able to take away, because it hangs over the front chain drive. But you can slope it outwards so much that the through bolts can be taken away. Don't try to bend the chain cover to much. In that case the felt sealing will be pressed out of its place. You can of course put it back but you loose 1/2 hour. Now you just have to take away the long six wedge nut, see picture above. Remember, this had a screw through the chain cover. Knock away the tightening U-bar through it's oval hole.

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Remember to take away the kicker and gearchange device. Ref 1

This left picture only shows that you can slope out the chain cover.
Take away the starting device and also the gear changer. If you have glued the starter just warm it up with a gas welder and the knock it away. Don't forget the screw. I have also a little hollow pin because the small splines have almost been worn out.

Localize the black plate which is hanging outside the gearbox. It is a plate bar which starts down at the foot rest fitting and continues up to the holding screw of the gearbox. There are another 4 long screws through back edge of the engine housing. Loose them all and knock them out, not all the way. Let them be in there places. Note that the lower holds the foot rests. Let the left nut be in place and loosen the right one so you can press the stud pin in and loose the nut more. Do this about 3 times. This behavior depend of the exhaust pipe. Press in the stud pin so you can take away the foot rest. Note the foot rest parts and which side they are mounted. The short distance on the right side! Now you can take away the plate bar.

When it is about to loose the lower gearbox sloping attachment. In the left picture you can see a nut just to the left of the foot rest. Loosen it and the alike on the left side. Knock out the stud according to the right picture. Now the gearbox is free and can be lifted away. Remember to take away the small diameter clutch push bar and also save the little steel ball. Also remember at reassembling to turn the bar the right way. The ball must lay in the crater of the bar.

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Now it's time to make reassembling a little easier as I promised. It's about how to assemble the battery and tool box.

Open up the 2 point of attachments on the battery holder with the help of a hack saw. You will get a U-hole. We replace the 2 long screws with hollow distances according to picture and put 4 screws, washers and spring washers. M8 are good enough. This means that you can mount the tool box first, then the battery holder. Don't forget the U-formed tightening bar. It will be a little easier but yet difficult to handle with 2 hands and thick fingers. Put washers as distances so your battery stands straight up. Check then that the rear part of the gear changer is free.

Another thing! When you mount the chain lock to the crankshaft chain wheel. It must be so loose that you from behind can put in the locker. To be able to do this you need one extra locker to put in from front. This will make it possible for you to insert the working lock from behind. This from behind will press out the front one. The locking plate must put on the outside and it's opening must point backwards in the moving direction of the chain.
Good Luck!
Use table of contents for next chapter.

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