Sarolea 350 1951 Clutch Link to main site  Swedish version

Update 2011-03-30

Dismantling the clutch is one of the easiest things. In order to start from the beginning. Take away the outer chain cover. Don't take away the primary chain yet. It will be used for holding up when you later are going to loosen the inner clutch nut.

    
Start to unscrew the nut for the clutch wire. Then lift them of the wire. On the clutch housing cut off the locking wire and observe how the holes are drilled. Now unscrew the spring screws for the clutch.
    
Look at the valve looking detail. It is the device to get the clutch out of engagement. It is loose and one can just take it out. Inside there is a little ball from a bearing. Important. Don't loose it because you cannot reach it until you have brought out the gearbox. If you have a small magnet it is easy to bring out. On the outer side there is a push bar. This one must be turned to the right at montage. Read further under the article about gearbox. Now take away the clutch plates and drive plates. Put them in order and remember which one was most inside. Be careful with the clutch drive plates, they are loose in their holes.
   
Now you must open up the locking tab so as to unwind the center nut of the chain wheel. Do this carefully as new locking washers is almost impossible to find. It is modern to use recycling. At this position it is good to have the duplex chain still in place. Not as the picture shows, also the chain to the rear wheel, so all things are kept in their position. You need a puller as the picture shows. Simple to fabricate. This is because the chain wheel sometimes fasten hard on the conical bar with it's woodruff key. As soon as the chain wheel has loosen you can dismantle the chains.

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Tighten the puller not to hard and knock with a hammer on the tightening screw. Then the chain wheel jumps loose. If not tighten a little harder. If the former owner has mounted this so the key has moved in it's place you might use the puller all the way. Don't forget, in this situation, to first take away the double chain.
    
Don't loose the small woodruff key. When mounting it can be a little hard to get the key in the right position. Never fasten the chain wheel unless you know that the chain wheel is in the right position. Inside you can see the locking nut for the head bar through the gearbox. NB I warn you not to forget that this nut has a left hand thread. For the moment don't take this nut away.
But now more about the plates inside the chain wheel.
   

The package consists of 5 driven plates and 4 drive plates which have 24 friction parts. They are formed conical with the measures of 14x18x10.5. Thickness on mine are 4.5 possible 5 mm as maximum. Totally 120. The whole package is working in oil which comes from the chain. This is not a fault.  The oil comes from the chain when you regularly lubricate it. But you shall not lubricate the clutch package.
Besides to the left I have put the spare parts list for the clutch. Click on the picture and you get an enlargement. The part 795/793 don't look the same but have the same function. You can also see the clutch bar, lock washer and some fly dirt which is intended to be the bearing ball.
 

Use table of contents for next chapter.
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