Sarolea 350 1951 Open gearbox Link to main site  Swedish version

Update 2011-11-27

We have now taken out the gearbox out of frame. I left it on floor and ended up for the day. After a refreshing sleep I start to look at the inside. It is not so difficult as many perhaps think. Although take care to know how gearwheels are positioned. It is a good idea to photo every step and also put them in order on your bench. Turn them also in the right way.
    
Look at the wonder on the floor. Then fasten it in your table vice. Start to open on the kick side. (The only way) My had some self locking nuts. Knock carefully so the cover will loose from the gasket. Try to have the kick axle and gear shift bar in place.   
  
Two pictures from my catalogue material. Here the right picture is most interesting. You can see the mounting of the kick with it's return spring. The spring is a little hard to remount as you must stretch at the same time. With 2 suitable screwdrivers you will succeed. The return rubber, normally destroyed, which takes the return of the gear, can be changed to a rubber petrol pipe.  Don't use plastic pipes. To the right you see the mechanism for gear shift lever. It consist of 2 hairpin springs. Those must be properly mounted. Se next picture.

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Click on the left one to get a bigger picture. Look at it and you see the bigger hairpin. At the same time the smaller is just to be seen between. The pin for the gearshift lever must come down between the smaller. The bigger shall lay outside. Just as the picture shows.
But this is dismantling.
Next step is to lift off the kick with spring and its mechanism. Loosen the stop device for the kick by unscrewing the stop pin from outside. Just lift off the shift lever. Now there are some nuts inside and outside which have to be removed. Start with the kick gear. A guide with locking washer and nut. Lift then off the gear with a spring and a guide. Note that the nut that is situated under the shift lever arm is a little lower than the others and has no washer. The bigger nut in the right picture holds a pin down, inside gearbox. You can chose to dismantle or not. It will hold the gears in place when open up, if in place. On the left picture the speedometer drive is to be seen on the left side just down the pin screw. Here you have an axle which is put with shearing resistance in the ball bearing. At the same time as you knock with a rubber hammer loosen the cover, you must knock down the axle. The cover can now easily been taken away.
     
Here the cover is away and I have taken away one gear.
      
You must not forget this washer. It is put on the upper part of secondary axle.  Look at the big gear next side. There it is.

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Before we continue. Have a look at the under side of the cover. You see 2 bearings. Through the bigger one the kick gear or as they say head axle. I have put the driving slot in place. Note that it has to be mounted from the other side. The smaller bearing holds the secondary axle. The axle you knock on when dismantling. Through the hole besides you have the steering arm for gear shift mechanism in place in the gearbox. In this location it is dismantled from the nut in the cover. Bearings are so cheap that always change them when open a gearbox.
Now back to the inside parts.
     
Note that I put the gears in 2 rows. Then I know better where to put them when they are remounted.
Now we have reached the gear mechanism pushers. You must bring up the guide arm, which we have talked about earlier. It is the axle to be seen in the middle. It is quite easy to take away because it is put in a guide hole of the gearbox cover.
    
To the right this pin and another gear are taken away. Left picture, left wall of the cover, you see a 6 mm plate which is the mechanism with its curves. Look close. Those guide the arms  when changing gears.

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You can now bring out the main axle and take out the last gear.
    
Look in the bottom of the cage. Here you, to the right, find a gear combination of 2 gears. To the rear you can clearly see the special Salorea roller bearing. If you are lucky the rollers are still in place. Otherwise you have to put them there with help of some grease when remounting. The main axle is put besides the ice-cream cup which has the gear combination.
    

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Some explanation of the 2 axles. The secondary axle consist of one combination of 2 gears. Inside the gears there is a bushing so they can rotate together around the axle with it's bushing. It happens that the force fit of bushing in the gears leave its holding. Then the gears rotate freely contrary axle and bushing. As long as there is no play it's good, but otherwise you have to pull them apart from the axle spline, where they are close force fit. In the upper gear there is an oil inlet hole which fits to a hole in the bushing. Every time a gear comes in this position, the oil is pressed inside the bushing. The same thing is valid for the main axle, with the difference that the bushing is free from axle. Is this bushing loose it is only to glue it in place with good Loc-tite. Ex 271. Only check that the oil inlet holes are open. You can of course drill new ones.
     
Check now. The cage is empty so far. You shall not dismantle anything more. Ah, well, one more thing. The 2 bearings in bottom. The smaller one is mounted in a cup from inside. To get it out knock outside on the cup and you are there. Almost as a freeze washer in a engine block. Look at the picture on the former page. Read the numbers of the bearings and buy new.
When remounting the gearbox you must make new gaskets. Buy gasket material. 3/10 of a mm suites well. Clean carefully and use your favorite no drying sealing joint. This is good when dismantling next time.
   

A list of the spares inside gearbox cage. This plus my descriptions are good for getting a view over the gearbox construction. If you are loosing the path you can always go back and look at my pictures.

Good Luck!
Use table of contents for next chapter.
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