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For a long time I have thought about to buy an old timer MC. I am a member of a Motor Cycle Historical Club, MCHK. I find this club to be a good one. I have been a member since 2003 and owns a MC from the same year. This one didn't feel so good and I felt that an old timer would suit the membership much better. I must be one in the gang. It takes of course tenths of years to get rid of the stamp new beginner. All others with Triumph, AJS, Matchless, Norton and other marks, who had been in the game since the 50th will make an eye looking down on me. Till this time is over I will use the possibilities of the club and be a good boy way down.
This about the adventure going by bus in Sweden.
NB: I read one book myself with big text height by Staffan Heimersson. One chapter an hour.
In the morning I had a nice breakfast and called at the same time Gunnar who had promised
Sävar, a nice little village. It could just be a place in Skåne, south of Sweden, now when it is 22° warm and nice sunshine.
He had his BSA in the garage. It was blank and shined beautifully. I looked at it as much as my knowledge about MC:s allowed me, and asked him a few questions about why it was like this and that. My biggest problem was that I had to believe that I could drive it home to Virsbo. It was about 10 o'clock and I wanted to start my way home as soon as possibly. A test drive had to be done. I felt that the clutch was very hard. The engine stopped at once when a gear was engaged. Some throttle had to be given. Then out driving around his block. Next gear didn't jump in. It became only an empty push. I thought it was only bad
handling from my side. The engine was running well and had a nice sound. Almost everything was chromed and Gunnar surely had put lots of money in it, just to get it in it's present condition.
Here I filled 6 litres petrol one CocaCola and 2 Hot Dogs. Then I didn't manage to start my BSA. It was hot and perhaps I gave him to much petrol. The engine was still a little warm. In such a case it is easy to choke to much. For me BSA is a "he". My strength to kick went quickly to an end and my try to run with it was doomed to fail and took my last energy. When I was hanging and deeply breathing over the steering, thinking over my situation, 2 guys were driving up to, me in a Van, asked if I had problem. "Would you like to have a push"? Sure of course. On the second try, with a resting pause between he started. I waved thankful "By, By", because I didn't dare to stop. I rolled out into the traffic roundabout and continued the E4 towards the High Coast and the new bridge north of Härnösand. Unnecessary stop to view the sight was not done and the first stop was in Sundsvall in front of stop lights and a big lorry behind. Here the engine stopped when light switched. I was standing in middle lane and could not see if cars were coming on the right side. The long distance lorry was eager to start. Now I had to be calm. I had to move out of his way. But should I dare to kick myself to the inner lane when I couldn't see backwards in the inner lane which for the moment was empty. No choice. The lorry honked at me and I rolled slowly to the side. A car sweeps ahead to the right of me and after I came to the side. Here I got my engine to start at once and could slide away before traffic light changed. My engine chattered a little and I wondered if I had reach the petrol reserve. I switched on the reserve tank and after a while the engine was good running again. Now I had to find a petrol station although I knew that I could drive another 50 km. You should know that there are long distances like in Germany High ways, between filling stations, in northern of Sweden. Some tenths km later I found a Statoil petrol station. 9 liters and a water bottle. I had 4 liters left, good for 80 km. At once two boys came up to me and admired my BSA. "You must had this for a long time"? "Yes" I said" since Umeå. That makes about 4.5 hours" was my answer, to their surprise. Then I prepared them for pushing if he wouldn't start. But he made it at once to my surprise. They thought of course that I was joking. Now my body was really tired and above all, my back was aching. I had to stand up in even intervals.
The morning afterwards I went up in good time after
been sleeping all night. This is unusual because sleeping in a new bed
is never good. I heard Göran and Ulla eating breakfast because she had
to go to the butcher's factory were she works. Göran is retired after some
rheumatism in his hands. This because of working with electrical
high tension line constructions, winter and summer. This has destroyed
his fingers. In spite of this he is not depressed and shares a good life with
his wife Ulla.
In the purchase there was some catalogue material.
This was the first I studied. In which way does the clutch function and
how to open up and dismantle. At this point I didn't know that Gunnar
had much more material for the cycle. Later I bought it togeteher with spares for 600 SKr. Before, this lack of knowledge, I ordered from
Just to start up my computer and search for HeliCoil. There is a firm in Falun prepared to sell to private persons. ERGO-kraft. Here I ordered a kit box for UNC threads. The actual one was 1/2" 13 threads per inch. (ggr). Not to
mismatch with 1/2" 12 ggr which is BSW. One must be very careful to measure inch threads when putting in HeliCoils. In a BSA it sometimes can be a none standard thread. Delivery time to get this box was one week, so I filled the gearbox with oil EP 90 and glued the plug. Later I changed this oil in gearbox to straight Castrol 50 and also for the engine. Now I started to open up for the clutch mechanism. To succeed with this you must first dismantle left footrest. It is fastened with a left hand threaded nut. Besides one has to take away the rear brake system. I used a drilling machine to unwind all the insex screws holding the cover. Here it was some long and some shorter ones.
Three screws which are holding the springs for clutch pressure were later taken away.
All this, together with further experienced things, kept me busy all summer and autumn 2006. Still in October the cycle was not in order, in the way that I can trust it. I will tell you about these points and after works had to be. Of all points it is only one that the seller should have told me nr. 15. See picture. All others I was informed of or had seen. I am glad I succeeded to come home. I understand that Gunnar wanted to sell the cycle.
The first I did was to change to straight 50 oil. Castrol. The mineral oil 20-40 which I had bought was moved down to be oil for the primary chain. After some test drives I found out that the new oil didn't affected on oil pressure. Next was the oil pump. It was dismantled and checked without finding anything wrong. Anyway I bought a new one, renovated, from BAS-motor. Now I got a small improvement. Oil lamp was lit at 2000 rpm. Could possible an oil cooler help? I got one from Gunnar in Umeå. I mounted it rather neat over the filter. Oil temp. was now 60°. Any improvement in oil pressure was not in sight because of this.
Now desperation over the situation, because I understood that it must be the main bearing in the right crankcase which was worn. To change that involved a total dismantling of engine. This is a work I had no experience of. When then a valve seat and a valve guide got loose, it was nothing to pray for. A total dismantling started. At this time I also decided to fix all other points on my list.
Change gearbox sprocket to 19 teeth. Rear wheel sprocket. New drive chain. Renovate the bearing and change left hand roller bearing. Have HeliCoil in most threads. Straighten the rear wheel which was a little out of truth and of course everything else I detect.
I understood that in order to bring engine out of frame, I had to make it so light as I could. I must dismantle as much as possibly. First empty all oil from engine and gearbox.
The 2 screws in the middle had too less with material in the top head. They were not able to be changed. Before continuing, tooe away the exhaust pipes.
In order to get the gearbox cluster out of its place I knew from my earlier working that I had to dismantle the whole clutch. First away with the foot rest, rear brake system and cover with all it's insex bolts. See earlier pictures. Away with chain protection. The clutch dismantles according to earlier.
Now one want gladly take away the gearbox sprocket from gearbox axle. There are many that with a screwdriver hit the nut to unthread it. Bad, bad. This is not allowed. Read further how I did. You must first dismount the gearbox cluster.
Here you have to take away the outer cover first. To do this remove the foot rest (may be left if you only shall take away the outer cover), gear pedal and kick arm.
The subject for inner cover is to separate engine oil from gearbox and it is equipped with a sealer which prevent these two oil volumes to mix. This cover is put in place with 8 insex bolts and have different lengths. Note carefully. Two are put outside low and 3 in the bottom of cover. Rest are around the edge. See picture and enlargement. Bring out the oil stick of gearbox area. When you bring this cover away you should
Nothing is difficult if you know how to handle. Use a rubber or plastic hammer to get it away. As the cover loosens knock the kick axle in. Bring away the spur and mount it in its usual place. Don't bother about markings for the moment. Just notice that there are that kind. Look in the timer hole in the front of crankcase half and ensure that you see the timing marking. It looks like a big screwdriver groove. Picture former side. Don't mismatch with the round balancing holes. This cover you also turn backward and tape as you like. Study also the clutch mechanism. Pull out the push rod with a
Check the chain sprocket with it's nut and find out that it can be loosened with a suitable socket. Possibly a longer one. Now you understand that it was a
But back to the right side. The camshaft nut has a washer with locking tabs. You must have the crankshaft locked through the timer hole according to earlier writings. Loosen the nut and pull out camshaft with your lovely puller. Note that there is a woodruff key. The camshaft cannot be taken away until you have divided the 2 crankcases. Left we now have to dismount the oil pump and pinion spur.
Now we start the work for dismounting the engine out of the frame. The drive chain and protection must be taken away. Hang up both ignition coils on the right shock absorber. The front and rear studs were no problem to loosen. On the other hand the rear engine mounting consisting of 4 bolts gave me lots of troubles. It must be something wrong in design because they were not possible to take away from their places. I was forced to loose even the 3-corner fastening plates. It took so long time that I today don't really remember how I solved it. Don't forget the oil pipe connection, from the tank, under the engine casting. It is put there with one small bolt. Even the oil sump cover must be dismounted. I must also mention that if your cycle has no studs holding the sump cover, be extremely careful with the suction pipe for the oil return. It reach under the level of the cover connection. Now it is possible to lift the engine from the front fastening and take with both arms, and all your strength, the engine out of it's place. Then you can study the wonder on your bench. Don't forget to put something under which will take care of all oil. In this case a packing left from my crayfish party. Later I drilled a hole in my bench where the crankshaft end could be put in. In this way the engine part was steady in it's place. Look at the picture of the empty frame. You can see how I arranged all parts. Coil springs, carburetors, cover to the gearbox, outer cover, middle camshaft wheel and oil pump pipe connections. Also the 2 black 3 edges plates for the rear engine mount. When engine is in place these plates are almost impossibly to reach for tools and hands.
hammer. When this half is away look inside. You can see the bearing ring. From outside there are shims (for position of the triplex chain), simmering, inner sealing ring and distance shims for the crankshaft axial play. Use the same type of puller (to be bought at a tool shop for 600 SKr.) You can see it in the picture. Then pull of the
Now, when I have my engine in pieces (I have been taught) that always change bearings. They are proportionally cheap. For this reason I bought a new roller bearing. The same as that was mounted. This means that I showed the SKF shop "I want one alike". They had one week delivery. Later I got to know that it should be a bearing of the type C3. It was a normal bearing mounted. Well it might go well. The bearing was priced 634 Skr, a little cheaper than BAS-Motor.
When mounting the crankcases together, you have to start with the right part. Why, because you must prepare for the axial play when left part is mounted.
This is good to know about BSA design. The left crankcase cannot be mounted with the inner bearing part mounted on the crankshaft. The rollers don't slip inside the outer bearing ring. They fall down and interfere with the outer bearing ring. You must have the inner bearing part slipped in by hand to be complete. Well first I knocked in the outer ring from the inside of the case. I had a little marking left where the bottom ought to be positioned. Anyway, I was not sure that the ring was exactly perpendicular against the crankshaft line. Some distance shims were put on the crankshaft, otherwise the bearing will be to close to crankshaft balance weight, and you cannot get any grip for the puller. The bearing was warmed in place with my air heating gun. Then the crankcase was put in place and some bolts were mounted. With a mandrel the roller ring was knocked in the bottom of the crankshaft. You can easily hear and feel in the mandrel when it has it's proper position. But what about the (perpendicular) position of the outer ring? I took the mandrel and knocked in the outer inner edge of the bearing so far that the rollers now positioned against the edge. This will give me a zero in axial play, but my goal was to have the outer ring in the right position. To have this checked I mounted a measure clock (according to the picture) on the crankshaft end and put the measure pin against the outer ring (picture). In the case that the clock gave a change when rotating I brought out the mandrel again and so forth till I got zero. Next step is to get the right axial play. But how to know? It is supposed to be 0.07 mm. I reach after much work 0.1 mm. For reaching this I had to dismount the crankcase several times and also the inner bearing, and mounted different shims.
Now, you have the last chance to mount HeliCoils. But warning! Don't drill in the rear side of the left crankcase connection. Here there is not material enough. This is valid for four threads where the chain goes near the crankcase.
pump, the threaded holes around the crankcase halves.
Now you must press the ring together in order to slip on the cylinder barrel. There are special pressing tools but you can use a rubber pipe ring. If you use my type note that I have grounded one side just to get it almost just parallel with the ring. This is not the best way but can be used if you are careful. Turn the grounded side upwards.
A cylinder barrel which is bored 060 or more has normally no chamfer left. This bevel is important for the piston rings to make them possible to engage the cylinder. Check this and if necessary ground a better, a small, chamfer. Improve the face with a ground paper 400 or a lesser number. When the barrel is on you have to press parallel otherwise it is easy destroy the edges of the rings, specially the oil ring. Don't try to press with your hands when it is easy to get the barrel unparallel. Instead take a hammer and knock with the wooden shaft end on the barell. In the center of course. Now the barrel will slowly, in short steps, enter the pistons. When the rings are fully entered, take the pressing ring away. Naturally you have much oil for easy gliding. Bring the crankshaft round by using the kick starter arm. Look now at the cylinder walls. If the oil ring not succeed to clean the walls you have probably destroyed an oil ring or compression ring. It is allowed to leave some oil in the turning position of the cylinder piston.
Here you have two receipts. As you see I first ordered the wrong dimension. 040 instead of 060.
P&B Chopper told me.
The rest you must handle yourself. Good luck.
Latest news 200110426 about this mc is that I have sold it to Håkan
Forsberg in city of Hofors. This means also that the cycle has returned
to its birth city where it was first registered. I wish him good luck,
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Assa car museum
Bynanders Car MC
Car sport museum Karlskrona
Eds Motorcycle museum
Enoch Thulin Landskrona
Falkoping MC Museum
Foundries and mines
Garage round in Halsingland
Hannover air museum
Hassleholm mil. vehicles
Holmgren VW collection
Ivar Car museum Hoting
Koping car museum
Malmkoping mil. vehicle museum
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Mercedes Benz 2000
Mercedes Benz 2018
MC museum Hedemora
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My ArtGlas collection
Otto Walz 2018
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Robot Museum Sweden
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Sinsheim museum 2000
Sinsheim museum 2018
Skokloster car museum
Storvik Odds and Ends
Svedino car & airplane
Soderhamn Air Force
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Technical museum Stockholm
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Travels (in Swedish)
My Heritage (in Swedish)
BSA Norway Repair shop and spare parts
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following owners have been used in bjorns-story.se with the
Reference 1: © Björn Bellander bjorn.bellander(at)telia.com
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